Lemon and Strawberry Cake

Cut the unwaxed lemon into approximately 2mm slices and remove the seeds carefully. Blanch the slices in gently simmering water for 2 minutes, then drain.

Warm 150g sugar and 150g water in a wide saucepan until the sugar dissolves, then add the lemon slices with minimal overlap. Simmer very gently, checking from 25 minutes and allowing up to 45–60 minutes for thicker rind, until the pith is translucent and the rind tender.

Transfer the lemon slices carefully to baking parchment and leave them overnight to dry. They should remain pliable and slightly tacky, with no liquid dripping from them; then cut the best slices into half-moons.

Finely chop the 250g hulled strawberries and cook them with 35g sugar and 10g lemon juice over medium-low heat, stirring frequently. Crush some of the fruit and reduce the mixture to approximately 180g.

Mix 5g cornflour with 10g cold water until smooth, stir it again, then pour it into the gently bubbling strawberries. Cook for 1 minute, stirring continuously, then remove from the heat.

Transfer the filling to a shallow container, let the steam subside, then cover and refrigerate until completely cold. Reserve 150–160g for the cake, divided between the two filling layers.

Bring the eggs to room temperature, beat four briefly and weigh out 200g. Heat the oven to 160°C fan / 180°C conventional, then grease and line three 20cm tins and measure all remaining sponge ingredients.

Whisk the eggs briefly, then add the sugar gradually. Continue whisking for about 7–10 minutes until the mixture is pale, very voluminous and falls in a thick ribbon.

While the eggs whisk, heat the milk and butter together until the butter has melted and the mixture is steaming. Do not let it boil.

Combine the plain flour, baking powder and salt. Add them to the whipped egg mixture in three additions on the lowest mixer speed, stopping as soon as each addition is incorporated.

Off the heat, combine the hot milk mixture with the oil, vanilla, lemon juice and zest, then whisk about two ladlefuls of batter into it. Slowly return this lightened mixture to the main bowl on low speed, scrape the base and mix only briefly.

Divide the batter equally between the three tins and bake immediately. Check from 22 minutes; they will usually need 23–28 minutes, and are ready when the centres spring back and a skewer comes out clean.

Cool the cakes in their tins for 15 minutes, then turn them out gently onto racks. Leave them until completely cold before filling.

Beat 200g softened butter until completely smooth. Add 200g sifted icing sugar gradually and beat for several minutes until pale and smooth.

Drain any visible liquid from the cold cream cheese, then add it with the vanilla and mix only until uniformly smooth. Reserve 100g plain frosting for the borders, then stir the very finely grated lemon zest into the remainder.

If the frosting has warmed and softened, refrigerate it briefly before using. Do not keep beating it in an attempt to make it firmer.

Trim only pronounced domes, secure the first sponge to the cake board with a dab of frosting and spread 40g lemon frosting thinly over it. Pipe a 5–6mm-high frosting ring near the edge and spread 75–80g cold strawberry filling inside it.

Add the second sponge and repeat with 40g frosting, another low frosting ring and 75–80g strawberry filling. Add the final sponge with its flattest underside facing upwards and check the alignment from several directions.

Refrigerate the stacked cake for 45–60 minutes. The filling should be firm enough that the layers no longer shift when you begin coating the cake.

Spread a thin crumb coat over the top and sides, filling any gaps between the layers. Scrape away the excess rather than building a thick layer.

Refrigerate the crumb-coated cake for about 30 minutes. It should feel firm enough to touch lightly without frosting lifting away.

Make the top opaque and smooth, while scraping the sides thinly enough that a faint suggestion of sponge shows through. Draw any raised frosting at the top edge gently inwards and save a little frosting for repairs rather than using it all.

Place the coated cake in its box and refrigerate overnight. Keep it level so the layers and finish stay straight.

Let the reserved plain frosting soften just enough to pipe, then use a small star nozzle to make narrow shell borders around the top edge and base. Keep the border about 5–7mm wide and practise a short row on parchment first.

Beat 20g softened butter with 40g sifted icing sugar until smooth, then mix in concentrated red gel colouring. If necessary, soften it with water only one or two drops at a time until it pipes in an unbroken line.

Practise the inscription on baking parchment and lightly mark the lettering position on the chilled, dry cake with a cocktail stick. Pipe “Happy” above “Birthday!” slightly towards the front-right, leaving the back and left side free for the fruit crescent.

Wash the decorating strawberries and dry them thoroughly, then select about two whole berries and four to six halves. If using the glaze, warm 20g apricot jam with 1 tsp water, strain it and cool until barely warm before brushing a very thin film over the cut strawberry surfaces.

Build a crescent around the back and left edge with the strawberries and four to six candied lemon half-moons, then add the edible violas. Finish with a small pinch of very fine lemon zest and keep the lettering fully clear.

Refrigerate the finished cake until the coating is firm before travelling, then transport it on its cake board inside the box on a flat, non-slip surface. Keep it refrigerated at 0–5°C, including at the venue.

Allow the cake about 45–60 minutes in a cool room before serving, shortening this in warm conditions. Cut with a long clean knife, wiping it between slices, and refrigerate leftovers promptly for up to two days.